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How To Tie Into Existing Concrete Slab. Youll need to dig to the bottom of the existing footing drill it horizontally and grout in rebars that extend about a foot into the new footing. I would not cantilever it. What were gonna do here today is add on to this driveway. You can also use jackhammer this is better for larger jobs however this is more expensive than the sledgehammer.
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Youll need to dig to the bottom of the existing footing drill it horizontally and grout in rebars that extend about a foot into the new footing. R-11 on the slab edge. If the joint is taller than wide place the holes vertically. This is what i coordinate with our structural engineer on all commercialschool buildings for zero chance of slab heaving creating trip hazards or interfering w and most importantly the exterior door swinging. Once the slab preparation is complete cut the DPM protection 150 mm below floor level and fix a swellable water bar to the existing DPM. If the patio butts against the house this is where an concrete isolation joint should.
Make these holes 12 inches on center horizontally or vertically depending upon the predominant orientation of the joint.
With a 38 bit it. This is what i coordinate with our structural engineer on all commercialschool buildings for zero chance of slab heaving creating trip hazards or interfering w and most importantly the exterior door swinging. As Scott says just make sure you drill your holes so it requires beating the rebar in or alternatively it will cost more go get large concrete anchor bolts and drill and mount them so their half buried in the old slab. You can also use jackhammer this is better for larger jobs however this is more expensive than the sledgehammer. Wet the sand to compact. We advise floating the slab making sure to first thoroughly compact the subgrade base course or both.
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What were gonna do here today is add on to this driveway. This isnt the issue. Insert chunks of rebar and tie them into the grid. When it settles even if its 12 you put alot of stress on the existing foundation if you are tied into it. The usual method is to drill a hole into the original concrete that matches the rebar size and driving a piece of rebar into that hole that you can tie the rest of the rebar into.
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Tie Into the Existing Slabs When youre joining two concrete slabs connect the two with rebar to keep them at the same height. With a 38 bit it. Pipes should never be installed horizontally through a concrete slab. I assume no keyway was provided for the connection. Im getting bids on having a concrete patio poured approx 600-700sq ft.
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If the joint is taller than wide place the holes vertically. Place the diamond blade on the wet concrete saw on the X the center of the drain line. R-11 on the slab edge. If there is a vertical wall extending down to a footing under the slab edge the edge of the new slab should extend down to the old footing as. Tie Into the Existing Slabs When youre joining two concrete slabs connect the two with rebar to keep them at the same height.
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10 level 2 Brad221 5 years ago Agreed. Drill the holes as deep as you can the entire length of the bit so the rebar fits snugly into the holes. February 26 2018 Tying into an existing concrete driveway involves digging spec-ing sloping pouring and brooming. I would put 2 or 3 pin pile under the edge of that slab too and epoxy grout some rebar into the existing slab at the centerline of the existing slab. You can join the new concrete right to the old concrete this is called a concrete construction joint.
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February 26 2018 Tying into an existing concrete driveway involves digging spec-ing sloping pouring and brooming. This is David Odell with Odell Complete Concrete. You can use an ICF system and bring down the interior EPS panel to allow concrete to pour from slab into forms. Once the slab preparation is complete cut the DPM protection 150 mm below floor level and fix a swellable water bar to the existing DPM. This isnt the issue.
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You can also use jackhammer this is better for larger jobs however this is more expensive than the sledgehammer. Wet the sand to compact. Most details weve seen recommend not placing the slab directly on the footing but if youve got enough vertical clearance we think a ¼-inch layer of sand would work better than isolation-joint material. Remove the sand or soil by digging the remaining trench. What were gonna do here today is add on to this driveway.
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Insert chunks of rebar and tie them into the grid. This is David Odell with Odell Complete Concrete. Place the diamond blade on the wet concrete saw on the X the center of the drain line. This isnt the issue. He said no that we wouldnt want that bc you dont want the patio connected to the house in case of movement etc.
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I dont think you should tie in because the new pad will settle no matter how much you get the grade packed. Wet the sand to compact. Tie Into the Existing Slabs When youre joining two concrete slabs connect the two with rebar to keep them at the same height. Once done cutting use a sledgehammer to carefully break the concrete strip into chunks then remove the concrete pieces exposing the sand or soil underneath your concrete slab. Dont skip on the prep.
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Cut about 4 12 inches deep and. That way any settlement due to the pile system which should be very minimal would be similar. If the patio butts against the house this is where an concrete isolation joint should. Youll need to dig to the bottom of the existing footing drill it horizontally and grout in rebars that extend about a foot into the new footing. Make these holes 12 inches on center horizontally or vertically depending upon the predominant orientation of the joint.
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I will drill with a hammer drill and a 38 bit through the expansion material and into the existing slab about 6 inches. Cut about 4 12 inches deep and. We advise floating the slab making sure to first thoroughly compact the subgrade base course or both. Drill the holes as deep as you can the entire length of the bit so the rebar fits snugly into the holes. Its about 8 feet wide.
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The edge of the existing concrete that was sawed should be drilled and doweled so the new concrete wont separate lift or settle from the old concrete. Dowel the new footing to the original building with at least two 4 rebars. Wet the sand to compact. I would put 2 or 3 pin pile under the edge of that slab too and epoxy grout some rebar into the existing slab at the centerline of the existing slab. You can use an ICF system and bring down the interior EPS panel to allow concrete to pour from slab into forms.
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The best most expensive way to do this is either pour the slab with a turn down frost wall or build a frost wall and pour on top of it. Drill the holes as deep as you can the entire length of the bit so the rebar fits snugly into the holes. If there is a vertical wall extending down to a footing under the slab edge the edge of the new slab should extend down to the old footing as. The usual method is to drill a hole into the original concrete that matches the rebar size and driving a piece of rebar into that hole that you can tie the rest of the rebar into. This isnt the issue.
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I dont think you should tie in because the new pad will settle no matter how much you get the grade packed. This is David Odell with Odell Complete Concrete. We run the nuts onto the end before pouring the fresh concrete the new slab will not move. Now its time to do some mechanical work. Most details weve seen recommend not placing the slab directly on the footing but if youve got enough vertical clearance we think a ¼-inch layer of sand would work better than isolation-joint material.
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The best way to tie in a new slab is to drill into the edge of the existing slab at least four inches and grout in short lengths of rebar which will extend into the new slab. Expansion joint between the slab and foundation. The edge of the existing concrete that was sawed should be drilled and doweled so the new concrete wont separate lift or settle from the old concrete. I assume no keyway was provided for the connection. You can join the new concrete right to the old concrete this is called a concrete construction joint.
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That way any settlement due to the pile system which should be very minimal would be similar. This isnt the issue. If the joint is taller than wide place the holes vertically. Wet the sand to compact. Make these holes 12 inches on center horizontally or vertically depending upon the predominant orientation of the joint.
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Now its time to do some mechanical work. We run the nuts onto the end before pouring the fresh concrete the new slab will not move. Insert chunks of rebar and tie them into the grid. As Scott says just make sure you drill your holes so it requires beating the rebar in or alternatively it will cost more go get large concrete anchor bolts and drill and mount them so their half buried in the old slab. The usual method is to drill a hole into the original concrete that matches the rebar size and driving a piece of rebar into that hole that you can tie the rest of the rebar into.
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Remove the sand or soil by digging the remaining trench. Tie Into the Existing Slabs When youre joining two concrete slabs connect the two with rebar to keep them at the same height. I dont think you should tie in because the new pad will settle no matter how much you get the grade packed. Keep in mind that here in Dallas we have terrible. He said no that we wouldnt want that bc you dont want the patio connected to the house in case of movement etc.
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Pipes should never be installed horizontally through a concrete slab. It should run vertically through the slab support to allow subsequent connections to be made effectively. I asked one company if the new patio would tied into existing foundation with dowels or rebar etc. Once done cutting use a sledgehammer to carefully break the concrete strip into chunks then remove the concrete pieces exposing the sand or soil underneath your concrete slab. I would put 2 or 3 pin pile under the edge of that slab too and epoxy grout some rebar into the existing slab at the centerline of the existing slab.
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